Crochet Fairy — Free Pattern
This crochet fairy is done in the amigurumi style. When I completed the crochet fairy, I realized that she reminded me of someone—Reese Witherspoon. So, now you know why she is called Reese the Garden Fairy.
Crochet Fairy Materials
- Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice® Yarn Worsted Weight: Afghan, Aran Yarn Acrylic (3.5 oz/170 yards/100g ball):
- 1ball#860-123 Beige
- 1ball#860-100 White
- 1ball#860-158 Mustard
- Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton worsted weight yarn (3.5 oz/186 yds/100g per ball):
- 1 ball #761-172 Grass
- Poly-fil® fiberfill
- Two 9mm Safety Eyes
- Chenille Stems (aka pipe cleaners) White
- Embroidery Floss—Black, Brown and Red
- Size G/6/4mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- Stitch Markers
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
Flower Adornment Note: The flower shown in the fairy’s hair is meant to be a suggestion. To me it just seemed silly to suggest that someone buy a skein of yarn to make a tiny flower. However, there might be people out there who want to make the flower shown in the photo. That is why I included the instructions. Please feel free to be crafty and use whatever you have on hand. It could be embroidery floss or fine yarn in pink. If you have small flowers in your craft stash, then use it. You could also create a wreath for the garden fairy to wear.
Size
9″ tall and has a wingspan of 9″
Crochet Fairy Instructions
NOTES
Unless you are told otherwise, the rounds are worked in continuous spirals; do not join. Do not turn work at the end of each round.
sc2tog (sc dec) (Insert hook into next st and draw up a loop) twice, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook – 1 sc decreased
mb=make bobble with four stitches; click here for tutorial.
Crocodile Stitch: 5 dc around vertical post from top to bottom of next dc, ch 1, turn work next dc worked in same st from bottom to top, worked dc around vertical post of dc. Click here for tutorial.
Head
Construction Note: Typically, I write instructions for the head starting with top and working down. However, I wrote the instructions for the crochet fairy’s head starting from the bottom (the chin) and working up to the top. This information will be relevant to adding face detail and to assembling the crochet fairy.
Rnd 1: With Beige yarn, ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook, place stitch marker (see Notes). (4 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in sc, sc in sc (repeat twice) (6 sc)
Rnd 3: Sc in 2 sc, 2 sc in sc (repeat twice) (8 sc)
Rnd 4: Work 2 sc in each sc around. (16 sc)
Rnd 5: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 6: [Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] around. (24 sc)
Rnds 7-8: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 9: [Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc] around. (32 sc)
Rnd 10: [Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc] around. (40 sc)
Rnd 11: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 12: Sc in each of next 3 sc, sc dec in next 2 sc] around. (32 sc)
Rnd 13: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 14: Sc in each of next 2 sc, sc dec in next 2 sc] around. (24 sc)
Rnd 15: Sc in each sc around.
Add face detail.
Eye Tip—Add eyelashes prior to permanently attaching safety eyes.
- Safety Eyes—insert into row 10 with five stitches between them.
- Eyelashes—use black embroidery floss to add three eyelashes over each eye.
- Tip—the starting point of the lash should be close to the hole the eye gets inserted into.
- Tip—the placement of lashes based on a clock are 2 o’clock for the longest center eyelash, 1 o’clock for the top and two thirty for the horizontal. Mirror the placement for the other eye.
- Mouth—use red embroidery floss and work into row 5.
- Use three strands of brown embroidery floss to add eyebrows.
Rnd 16: Sc in each of next sc, sc dec in next 2 sc] around. (16 sc)
Stuff.
Rnd 17: Dec in each sc. (8 sc)
Rnd 18: Dec in each sc.
Fasten off. If your stitch tension is not tight enough then you can use this opportunity to sew the top closed. Weave in yarn ends and trim.
Hair Base
Rnd 1: With Mustard yarn, ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Join to first sc with slp st. (4 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, work 2 sc in each sc around. Join to first sc with slip st. (8 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, [sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] around. Join to first sc with slip st. (12 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, [sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc] around. Join to first sc with slip st. (16 sc)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, [sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc] around. Join to first sc with slip st. (20 sc)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, [sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc] around. Join to first sc with slip st. (24 sc)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, [sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc] around. Join to first sc with slip st. (28 sc)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, [sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc] around. Join to first sc with slip st. (35 sc)
Rnds 9-10: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Join to first sc with slip st.
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.
Body
Rnd 1: With Grass yarn ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Join to first sc with slp st. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, work 2 sc in each sc around. Join to first sc with slip st. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1 [sc in each of next sc, 2 sc in next sc] around. Join to first sc with slip st. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1 [sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc] around. Join to first sc with slip st. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: Ch 1 [sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc] around. Join to first sc with slip st. (30 sc)
Rnd 6: Ch 1 [sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc] around. Join to first sc with slip st. (36 sc)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Join to first sc with slip st.
Change yarn color to Beige.
Rnds 8- 9: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Join to first sc with slip st.
Rnd 10: Ch 1 [sc in each of next 4 sc, sc dec in next 2 sc] around. Join to first sc with slip st. (30 sc)
Rnds 11-12: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Join to first sc with slip st.
Rnd 13: Ch 1 [sc in each of next 3 sc, sc dec in next 2 sc] around. Join to first sc with slip st. (24 sc)
Rnd 14: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Join to first sc with slip st.
Rnd 15: Ch 1 [sc in each of next 2 sc, sc dec in next 2 sc] around. Join to first sc with slip st. (18 sc)
Rnd 16: Ch 1 [sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc] around. Join to first sc with slip st. (24 sc)
Rnd 17: Ch 1 [sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc] around. Join to first sc with slip st. (30 sc)
Rnd 18: Ch 1, sc in 13 sc, mb (four stitch bobble) in sc, sc in 2 sc, mb, sc in 13 sc. Join to first sc with slip st.
- Bobble Stitch Tutorial—Click Here
- Assemble Note: you will center the chin between the bobbles made in this round.
Rnd 19: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join to first sc with slip st.
Rnd 20: Ch 1 [sc in each of next 3 sc, sc dec in next 2 sc] around. Join to first sc with slip st. (24 sc)
Rnd 21: Ch 1 [sc in each of next 2 sc, sc dec in next 2 sc] around. Join to first sc with slip st. (18 sc)
Stuff.
Rnd 22: Ch 1 [sc in next sc, sc dec in next 2 sc] around. Join to first sc with slip st. (12 sc)
Rnd 23: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Join to first sc with slip st.
Rnd 24: Ch 1 [sc dec in next 2 sc] around. Join to first sc with slip st. (6 sc)
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.
Arm (make 2)
Rnd 1: With Beige yarn, ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook, place stitch marker. (4 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in sc, sc in 3 sc .(5 sc)
Rnd 3: 2 sc in sc, sc in 4 sc. (6 sc)
Rnd 4: 2 sc in sc, sc in 5 sc. (7 sc)
Rnd 5: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 6: Sc2tog, sc in 5 sc. (6 sc)
Rnd 7: [Sc in each of next sc, 2 sc in next sc] around. (9 sc)
Rnds 8-10: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 11: Sc in sc, hdc in sc, dc in sc, tr in sc, dc in sc, hdc in sc, sc in sc and slp st in 2 sc.
Rnd 12: Sc in 2 sts (sc and hdc), hdc in dc, dc in tr, hdc in dc, sc in 2 sts (hdc and sc), fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.
Note: You created the shoulders when you worked rounds eleven and twelve.
Leg (make 2)
Rnd 1: With Grass yarn ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Join to first sc with slp st. (6 sc)
Rnds 2-3: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Join to first sc with slip st. Change to Beige yarn after round 3.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, [sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] around. Join to first sc with slip st. (9 sc)
Rnds 5-8: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Join to first sc with slip st.
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.
Add front of shoe
Join Grass yarn to a stitch from round 2 and ch 2. Make a bobble using four dc. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Secure stitch to create the front of shoe. Weave in yarn ends and trim.
Dress
Crocodile Stitch: 5 dc around vertical post from top to bottom of next dc, ch 1, turn work next dc worked in same st from bottom to top, work d dc around vertical post of dc.
The crocodile stitch is used to create the bottom half of the dress. Just in case you are unfamiliar with the stitch, I included a link for the tutorial done by Red Heart Yarn. Their tutorial includes photos. Click here for the crocodile stitch tutorial.
Bottom Half of Dress
- With Grass yarn, ch 51.
- Work 2 dc in 6th chain from hook. This counts as the first set of 1 dc, space, 2 dc.
- Ch 1. Skip 2 chains. Dc in next stitch.
- Ch 1. Skip 2 chains. 2 dc in next stitch.
- Repeat steps 3 and 4 across row. You will end with 2 dc in the last stitch of your foundation row. This will give you a row of 2 dc alternated with 1 dc.
You will now begin the first row of crocodile scale stitches.
- Ch 1, turn.
- Skip first dc (aka the last dc of the previous row).
- Work 5 bpdc around the post of the second double crochet in the row. These are worked from the top down, so that the second bpdc is worked around the same post directly below the first bpdc. This makes the first half of the first crocodile scale.
- Crochet 5 dc post stitches around the next dc post in your row working from bottom to top.
- Slip stitch in the next dc—to secure scale to row.
- Repeat steps 8-10 across the row. You will end with a scale (so you will not do the last slip st at the very end of the row).
You should notice that you are always working a slip st in the first dc of a pair from the row below, then you work the first half of the crocodile scale in the second dc of the pair and the second half of the crocodile scale in the dc that stands alone in the row below.
Now, you are ready to create the next set of alternating dc stitches that will look similar to the row that you had at the end of step five.
- Turn, ch 1.
- Slip st in center of first scale.
- Ch 4.
- 2 dc in the next slip st. (Notice: there are 2 dc in the row below. One has the texture of the five dc worked around it for half of a crocodile scale. The other without texture and has a slip st at the top. Work 2 dc into this slip st.)
- Ch 1, dc in center of scale.
- Ch 1, 2 dc in next slip st.
- Repeat steps 16 and 17 across row. End with 2 dc in last stitch.
Work a total of 3 crocodile rows.
Top Half of Dress
Row 1: Ch 1, work 30 sc along the top edge. (30 sc)
Rows 2-3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn [sc in 4 sc, sc2tog ] across. (25 sc)
Rows 5-6: Ch 1, turn sc in each sc across.
Row 7: Ch 1, turn [sc in 4 sc, 2 sc in sc] across (30 sc)
Row 8: Sc in 12 sc, hdc in sc, 5 dc in sc, hdc in 2 sc, 5 dc in sc, sc in 12 sc.
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing together.
Crochet Fairy Wing (make 2 top and bottom pieces)
Top of Wing
- With White yarn, ch 20, sc in second ch from hook, hdc in 3 ch, dc in 5 ch, tc in 3 ch, dc in 5 ch, hdc in ch, sc in ch.
- Ch 1 in preparation for working along the opposite side of foundation chain. Work 2 sc into the same spot. Hdc in ch, dc in 5 ch, tc in 3 ch, dc in 5 ch, hdc in 2 ch, slp st in 3 sts.
- Left side of doll wing—Sc in 22 sts.
- Right side of doll wing—Ch 1, turn, sc in 22 sts, turn and ch1.
- Position chenille stem (pipe cleaner) around wing. Secure into place by working sc stitches around it. Pointed Wing Option—for a pointed wing, bend the chenille stem in the middle. Work a hdc before and after the bend and a dc at the bend. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.
Bottom of Wing
- With White yarn, ch 7, 3 sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in next 4 ch sts, 3 sc into the last ch, working along opposite side of foundation chain, sc in next 4 ch, join with slp st into first sc. (14 sc)
- Ch 1, 2 sc in the first sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc in next sc. 2 sc in each of the next 5 sc, join with slp st into first sc. (26 sc)
- Ch 1, sc in next 2 sc, 3 sc in the next sc, sc in 12 sc, 3 sc in sc, sc in 10 sc, join with slp st into first sc. (30 sc)
- Ch 1, slp st in each sc, join with slp st into first slp st. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.
Hair Adornment
Flower
Leave a tail below your first chain that is long enough to stitch the spiral together to form a flower. With fine yarn or embroidery floss, ch 10. Work 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in next 2 ch, 2 hdc in next 3 ch, 2 dc in last 3 ch . You should have worked a total of 18 stitches. Fasten off. Roll Flower into a spiral. With yarn tail, sew spiral together.
Leaves
Make one per flower. The instructions below are for two connected leaves that wrap around a flower.
With Grass yarn, ch 4, sc in second ch from hook, hdc in ch, and dc in ch. Ch 4, sc in second ch from hook, hdc in ch, and dc in ch. Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Assemble the Crochet Fairy
- Sew head to body. The chin should be centered between the two bobble stitches.
- Sew arms to body. The shoulders go on top.
- Sew legs into place.
- Assemble wings. First step, is to create a right and left wing by sewing a top and bottom piece together.Second step, is to sew the right and left sides together. Only sew the top parts together.
- Finish dress and attach wings. Sew edges of dress together. Dress fairy. If you are going to permanently attach the dress to the fairy, then determine the relative position of both. Sew them into place.
- Sew hair base to head. The sc of the last row should be centered over face.
- Make and attach hair. Cut 12” pieces of Mustard yarn. Pick up a piece of yarn, divide it into strands, and fold in half. Attach hair around outside edge of hair base. Place the crochet hook through both loops. Place the strands folded in half over the hook and pull slightly through, creating a loop the size of a stitch. Pull both ends through the loop. Repeat all the way around and down the middle from front to back. Style hair as desired.
- Make and/or attach flower adornment. If using the crochet flower, then wrap the leaves around the flower and sew to connect them to the flower. Then sew the flower in the desired position.
- Weave in yarn ends and trim.